buying a custom blade

Here are some thoughts, tips, etc. for those of you thinking about buying a custom blade.

1- You can't just order anything.
custom blade sellers in general don't have trees and chopping machines.
they buy their wood from providers.
Their providers have standard thicknesses for different types of wood.
So for example you want limba, they probably have only in 0.5mm,
you want ayous, then they have in 1.2, 1.5 and 2.5 for example.
So you have to fit what the seller has.
It's not like you can think any particular blade and it can be built.

2- Don't be too picky on the measurements of the blade.
Blades don't always come in the exact measurements you asked.
This is not stiga or butterfly, sometimes it's just a guy doing everything by hand.

3- Once you have an idea on what you want to build, just contact the blade makers.
Here's a list of most of them.

borko56@cox.net
info@soulspin.tt
Tricky1blades@yahoo.com
prosales@ospblades.com
bladesbycharlie@gmail.com
vodak-dreva@centrum.cz
info@tt-piet.de (peter from germany)
kontakt@retturn.pl (retturn)
info@tischtennis-manufaktur.de
ross@rossleidy.com

4- Prices depend on who you buy from.
In general the more popular ones charge more, while the least known charge less.
But to give an example a 5 ply can cost 30, 40, 50 euros.
More plies, materials like carbon, they all add to the price.

5- Personally I bought from "peter from germany" and "retturn".

"Peter from germany" is one of the cheapest ones I think.
His blades are still very good, material is good.

With "retturn" I had a bit of a strange experience.
I email asking "can you do a blade with these characteristics?".
They answer "yes we can do this."
I send them another message saying "ok, this is what I need exactly, please let me know if you want to do it because I'm also in contact with other person who wants to do it."
2 weeks pass, no message, nothing.
In the meantime I agree with "peter" to make the blade.
so after two weeks I get a message from "retturn".
your blade is ready, please deposit the money in this account.
I'm thinking like "we never agreed on making this in the end".
But well they did it anyway so I bought it.

I think retturn maybe have a higher production.
The blade even has a logo with their name, it seems cut by machine, seems more like a normal blade you'd get from andro for example.
The blade from Peter is more like craft work.
The  handle is shaped by him using his hands, etc.

I was also in contact with ross leidy, soulspin, bladesbycharlie, stefan elsner....
But for one reason or another it just didn't happen.
For me it was just an experiment, so I wanted to keep it low profile and low cost.
This is not what some of the sellers have in mind, they see their blades as better than buying a stiga or a donic.
So it's good that there are many alternatives for different public.

pattex glue

Try not to use this glue.
At first sight it looks good because it's pretty liquid, it's rubber cement.....
but it's very very strong glue.
chances are when you remove the rubber from the blade you'll destroy it.
Also if the blade has not been sealed it will also be destroyed.
So really for me just avoid this glue.
I guess it's good for gluing a carpet to the floor, stuff like that.

glue that works

you can use this one safely, you can get it in taobao and aliexpress.
it's almost like old speed glue but it doesn't have the same effect.
but the way you apply it, the viscosity, the way the rubber looks after being glued.
they are all the same.
compared to tt glues it's not very expensive, I'd say the same price.
also good thing about these glues is after you applied once you can start just gluing the blade and use the remains in the rubber.
with water based glue many times after you remove your rubber you need to remove the glue from it as well and reglue the rubber again.

butterfly tenergy 25

what's up with tenergy 25?
why nobody uses it?
looking at the 2016 catalog they have  a drawing with the trajectory of 05, 80 and 64.
25?they don't even show it.

25 is great for pushing, flat hitting and blocking.
ball travels in a straight line.
it's really bad when you get away from the table and have to loop or counter loop a ball that's already past the net height.
because of the same reason.
the ball just won't go up and make a curve and then go down again like with 05.
it wants to travel in a straight line.
that's why it's really a rubber for staying close to the table.

pro players dont' do this in general, they start backing away from the table and they start counterlooping.
even when they are close to the table they want to counterloop.
which means they need the arc that 05, 80 gives them.
25 gives them no arc so they can't really use it.
amateur players copy pro players.
pros don't use it -> amateurs don't use it.

also in terms of speed and spin I always noticed it lacked both when compared to 05 and 64.
I guess you could say this gives it more control and it's true, but most players are looking for that arc for looping, for the speed for counterlooping.
that's why it's the left aside tenergy.

dianchi glue

I don't recommend this product.
why not?
the glue dries way too fast.
as you are spreading it over the sponge or wood it starts drying and making little balls.
when you stick together blade and rubber these balls make little mountains and it doesn't look good.

also you get the bottle and a couple of sponges.
if you want to use your finger to spread it's difficult because too much glue comes out of the bottle.

butterfly free chack II has a bottle that only allows little drops to come out.
I think this is much more convenient.
but well, free chack II is more expensive.