Here are some thoughts, tips, etc. for those of you thinking about buying a custom blade.
1- You can't just order anything.
custom blade sellers in general don't have trees and chopping machines.
they buy their wood from providers.
Their providers have standard thicknesses for different types of wood.
So for example you want limba, they probably have only in 0.5mm,
you want ayous, then they have in 1.2, 1.5 and 2.5 for example.
So you have to fit what the seller has.
It's not like you can think any particular blade and it can be built.
2- Don't be too picky on the measurements of the blade.
Blades don't always come in the exact measurements you asked.
This is not stiga or butterfly, sometimes it's just a guy doing everything by hand.
3- Once you have an idea on what you want to build, just contact the blade makers.
Here's a list of most of them.
borko56@cox.net
info@soulspin.tt
Tricky1blades@yahoo.com
prosales@ospblades.com
bladesbycharlie@gmail.com
vodak-dreva@centrum.cz
info@tt-piet.de (peter from germany)
kontakt@retturn.pl (retturn)
info@tischtennis-manufaktur.de
ross@rossleidy.com
4- Prices depend on who you buy from.
In general the more popular ones charge more, while the least known charge less.
But to give an example a 5 ply can cost 30, 40, 50 euros.
More plies, materials like carbon, they all add to the price.
5- Personally I bought from "peter from germany" and "retturn".
"Peter from germany" is one of the cheapest ones I think.
His blades are still very good, material is good.
With "retturn" I had a bit of a strange experience.
I email asking "can you do a blade with these characteristics?".
They answer "yes we can do this."
I send them another message saying "ok, this is what I need exactly, please let me know if you want to do it because I'm also in contact with other person who wants to do it."
2 weeks pass, no message, nothing.
In the meantime I agree with "peter" to make the blade.
so after two weeks I get a message from "retturn".
your blade is ready, please deposit the money in this account.
I'm thinking like "we never agreed on making this in the end".
But well they did it anyway so I bought it.
I think retturn maybe have a higher production.
The blade even has a logo with their name, it seems cut by machine, seems more like a normal blade you'd get from andro for example.
The blade from Peter is more like craft work.
The handle is shaped by him using his hands, etc.
I was also in contact with ross leidy, soulspin, bladesbycharlie, stefan elsner....
But for one reason or another it just didn't happen.
For me it was just an experiment, so I wanted to keep it low profile and low cost.
This is not what some of the sellers have in mind, they see their blades as better than buying a stiga or a donic.
So it's good that there are many alternatives for different public.
ping pong
Wednesday, 27 July 2016
pattex glue
Try not to use this glue.
At first sight it looks good because it's pretty liquid, it's rubber cement.....
but it's very very strong glue.
chances are when you remove the rubber from the blade you'll destroy it.
Also if the blade has not been sealed it will also be destroyed.
So really for me just avoid this glue.
I guess it's good for gluing a carpet to the floor, stuff like that.
At first sight it looks good because it's pretty liquid, it's rubber cement.....
but it's very very strong glue.
chances are when you remove the rubber from the blade you'll destroy it.
Also if the blade has not been sealed it will also be destroyed.
So really for me just avoid this glue.
I guess it's good for gluing a carpet to the floor, stuff like that.
Friday, 8 July 2016
glue that works
you can use this one safely, you can get it in taobao and aliexpress.
it's almost like old speed glue but it doesn't have the same effect.
but the way you apply it, the viscosity, the way the rubber looks after being glued.
they are all the same.
compared to tt glues it's not very expensive, I'd say the same price.
also good thing about these glues is after you applied once you can start just gluing the blade and use the remains in the rubber.
with water based glue many times after you remove your rubber you need to remove the glue from it as well and reglue the rubber again.
Sunday, 3 July 2016
butterfly tenergy 25
what's up with tenergy 25?
why nobody uses it?
looking at the 2016 catalog they have a drawing with the trajectory of 05, 80 and 64.
25?they don't even show it.
25 is great for pushing, flat hitting and blocking.
ball travels in a straight line.
it's really bad when you get away from the table and have to loop or counter loop a ball that's already past the net height.
because of the same reason.
the ball just won't go up and make a curve and then go down again like with 05.
it wants to travel in a straight line.
that's why it's really a rubber for staying close to the table.
pro players dont' do this in general, they start backing away from the table and they start counterlooping.
even when they are close to the table they want to counterloop.
which means they need the arc that 05, 80 gives them.
25 gives them no arc so they can't really use it.
amateur players copy pro players.
pros don't use it -> amateurs don't use it.
also in terms of speed and spin I always noticed it lacked both when compared to 05 and 64.
I guess you could say this gives it more control and it's true, but most players are looking for that arc for looping, for the speed for counterlooping.
that's why it's the left aside tenergy.
why nobody uses it?
looking at the 2016 catalog they have a drawing with the trajectory of 05, 80 and 64.
25?they don't even show it.
25 is great for pushing, flat hitting and blocking.
ball travels in a straight line.
it's really bad when you get away from the table and have to loop or counter loop a ball that's already past the net height.
because of the same reason.
the ball just won't go up and make a curve and then go down again like with 05.
it wants to travel in a straight line.
that's why it's really a rubber for staying close to the table.
pro players dont' do this in general, they start backing away from the table and they start counterlooping.
even when they are close to the table they want to counterloop.
which means they need the arc that 05, 80 gives them.
25 gives them no arc so they can't really use it.
amateur players copy pro players.
pros don't use it -> amateurs don't use it.
also in terms of speed and spin I always noticed it lacked both when compared to 05 and 64.
I guess you could say this gives it more control and it's true, but most players are looking for that arc for looping, for the speed for counterlooping.
that's why it's the left aside tenergy.
dianchi glue
I don't recommend this product.
why not?
the glue dries way too fast.
as you are spreading it over the sponge or wood it starts drying and making little balls.
when you stick together blade and rubber these balls make little mountains and it doesn't look good.
also you get the bottle and a couple of sponges.
if you want to use your finger to spread it's difficult because too much glue comes out of the bottle.
butterfly free chack II has a bottle that only allows little drops to come out.
I think this is much more convenient.
but well, free chack II is more expensive.
Sunday, 5 June 2016
fake blades quick review
fake viscaria:
the one I tried is called woerao viscaria.
compared to the real viscaria the head is a little bigger, maybe 1cm, and the core is a bit thicker, 0.3mm maybe.
also the handle is a bit thicker.
other than that they look the same.
in play I'd say they are very similar, the butterfly blade is a bit bouncier and has more power.
woerao compensates this with more control.
also I think woerao feels a bit softer in general.
the composite could be alc or not, the color of it is the same as butterfly's alc so not sure.
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fake zhang jike super zlc:
I can't compare this blade to the real zhang jike super zlc because I never owned that blade.
but compared to a viscaria I'd say number one, the head dimensions are similar.
the handle is also similar.
one thing that stood out for me about this blade is that it's not faster than the real viscaria. it's quite slower.
you can say this will give you more control in the short game and similar situations, and it's true.
but in longer distance it definitely feels less powerful than viscaria.
also to me it felt quite harder than viscaria or michael maze or even zjk t5000.
the two layers after the composite are a bit thicker than viscaria.
and the core is a bit thinner.
overall the thickness is the same.
the composite I'm not sure what it is. it's definitely not superzlc like the butterfly blades.
if anything it could be regular zlc of a not very good quality.
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fake mizutani super zlc:
this one has exactly the same composite as the zhang jike super zlc.
as I already said, I'm pretty sure it's not super zlc, at least not the one butterfly uses.
thickness is the same as zhang jike super zlc.
again layers after the composite are a bit thicker than in butterfly blades and the core is a bit thinner.
speed is noticeably less than butterfly viscaria and at the same time control improves.
feel in hardness is similar I'd say to viscaria.
overall it's very similar to fake zjk szlc except the limba outer layers give it a bit more touch and softer feel.
I like this one a bit more than the zjk szlc.
oh the head is similar to the zjk szlc which is similar to the real viscaria.
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fake amultart:
the first thing that stood out here was the weight.
the blade I tried is like 105g.
another difference with the real amultart is the real one has 5 plies (hinoki - zlc - kiri - zlc - hinoki).
the fake one has hinoki - hinoki - xxx - kiri - xxx - hinoki - hinoki.
I guess the fake makers can't get hold of thick hinoki so they use two thinner layers.
in terms of playing characteristics I'd say the fake one is slower by a good margin.
it's more like a regular off in speed.
also the feel is still soft but a little sharper than the real amultart.
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the one I tried is called woerao viscaria.
compared to the real viscaria the head is a little bigger, maybe 1cm, and the core is a bit thicker, 0.3mm maybe.
also the handle is a bit thicker.
other than that they look the same.
in play I'd say they are very similar, the butterfly blade is a bit bouncier and has more power.
woerao compensates this with more control.
also I think woerao feels a bit softer in general.
the composite could be alc or not, the color of it is the same as butterfly's alc so not sure.
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fake zhang jike super zlc:
I can't compare this blade to the real zhang jike super zlc because I never owned that blade.
but compared to a viscaria I'd say number one, the head dimensions are similar.
the handle is also similar.
one thing that stood out for me about this blade is that it's not faster than the real viscaria. it's quite slower.
you can say this will give you more control in the short game and similar situations, and it's true.
but in longer distance it definitely feels less powerful than viscaria.
also to me it felt quite harder than viscaria or michael maze or even zjk t5000.
the two layers after the composite are a bit thicker than viscaria.
and the core is a bit thinner.
overall the thickness is the same.
the composite I'm not sure what it is. it's definitely not superzlc like the butterfly blades.
if anything it could be regular zlc of a not very good quality.
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fake mizutani super zlc:
this one has exactly the same composite as the zhang jike super zlc.
as I already said, I'm pretty sure it's not super zlc, at least not the one butterfly uses.
thickness is the same as zhang jike super zlc.
again layers after the composite are a bit thicker than in butterfly blades and the core is a bit thinner.
speed is noticeably less than butterfly viscaria and at the same time control improves.
feel in hardness is similar I'd say to viscaria.
overall it's very similar to fake zjk szlc except the limba outer layers give it a bit more touch and softer feel.
I like this one a bit more than the zjk szlc.
oh the head is similar to the zjk szlc which is similar to the real viscaria.
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fake amultart:
the first thing that stood out here was the weight.
the blade I tried is like 105g.
another difference with the real amultart is the real one has 5 plies (hinoki - zlc - kiri - zlc - hinoki).
the fake one has hinoki - hinoki - xxx - kiri - xxx - hinoki - hinoki.
I guess the fake makers can't get hold of thick hinoki so they use two thinner layers.
in terms of playing characteristics I'd say the fake one is slower by a good margin.
it's more like a regular off in speed.
also the feel is still soft but a little sharper than the real amultart.
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Friday, 3 June 2016
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